Yesterday, we evaluated the practice of applying faux jewel settings to the early eleven-jewel movements manufactured by the American watch companies to enhance the visual appeal. While certain characteristics can be used as reasonable indicators, inspecting under the dial is the only conclusive method to verify the jewel count. This can be beneficial to corroborate information derived from factory serial lists or databases. Inspecting under the dial of the Waltham Model 1857 P.S. Bartlett reveals the lack of jeweling on the lower train, as expected.  This confirms that the movement features eleven jewels:  2 Balance Hole Jewels (Upper/Lower)2 Balance Cap Jewels (Upper/Lower)1 Impulse (Roller) Jewel2 Pallet Jewels1 Upper Hole Jewel on the Pallet Fork1 Upper Hole Jewel on the Escape Wheel1 Upper Hole Jewel on the 4th Wheel1 Upper Hole Jewel on the 3rd Wheel Under the Dial, American Watch Company (Waltham) Grade P.S. Bartlett - 18-Size, Model 1857, 11 Jewels, c.1868, Serial No... Continue Reading

by Nathan Moore, 11 hours ago

At first glance, many early movements produced by the early American watch companies appear to have screw-set jewel settings. However, under close inspection, these movements reveal scribed circles designed to imitate jewel settings.  This practice was frequently implemented on 11-Jewel movements, where the top plate is jeweled but the lower plate is not. The jewels were burnished into the upper plates and made to appear like more expensive screw-mounted jewel settings. As a result, an 11-Jewel movement could appear nearly identical to a 15-Jewel movement.  A quick inspection under magnification can easily identify these faux settings by the gilding texture than continues from the plate into the isolated area encircling the jewel. Faux jewel settings generally indicate the movement is only jeweled on the upper plate... Continue Reading

by Nathan Moore, 1 day ago

The earliest Model 1857 movements manufactured by Waltham feature a “sprung-under” hairspring and balance. In this arrangement, the hairspring is fitted underneath the balance wheel, and the balance cock can be removed independently from the balance. In early 1860, the company introduced a new “sprung-over” arrangement, primarily implemented on the Appleton, Tracy & Co. grade movements until 1868. The sprung over design provided more clearance for the hairspring and made adjustments much easier... Continue Reading

by Nathan Moore, 2 days ago